Photoshop: How to Create a Portrait behind Shattered Glass.

Hi. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV. I’m going to show you how to make a dramatic portrait of someone peering through shattered glass. I provided a PSD file that you can download,
so you can follow along. Its link is in my video’s description or project files below. There are 3 parts to this file that we’ll
use at various stages of this tutorial: an image of shattered glass on black, this gray gradient that we’ll use an an overlay and the shape of the jagged hole that’s in the center of the shattered glass. Open a photo of a person that you’d like to
use for this project. I downloaded this one from Shutterstock. To place it into the shattered glass document,
first make sure your Move Tool is active. If it isn’t press “v” on your keyboard. Drag your subject onto the tab of the shattered
glass, drag it down and release. To resize and position it, first, we’ll reduce
its opacity, so we can see the shattered glass through it. Open your Transform Tool by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + T. Drag it to a position that shows your subject’s face inside the area of the jagged hole. If any part of the Transform’s bounding box
is inside your canvas, you’ll need to resize and/or reposition it, so the bounding box remains outside. Go to a corner and when you see a diagonal, double-arrow, press and hold Alt or Option + Shift as you drag it out or in. Finesse its position and to accept it, press
Enter or Return. Increase its opacity back to 100% and drag
the layer to the bottom. We’ll convert our subject into a Smart Object,
so we can modify it non-destructively, as well as replace it with a another photo without
having to redo the effects. To do this, click the icon at the upper, right of the Layers panel and click “Convert to Smart Object”. Make a copy of it by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + J. Hide the Glass Overlay layer and make the Broken glass layer active. Change its Blend Mode to “Screen”. Make a copy of it and make the original layer active. Invert it by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + I and
change its Blend Mode to “Darken”. We’ll move the layer 1 pixel up and 1 pixel
to the right by pressing the Up arrow on your keyboard once and the right arrow once. Make the subject copy active and open your
Channels panel. If you don’t see it, go to Window and Channels. Ctrl-click or Cmd-click the Center Hole channel thumbnail to make a selection of its shape. Open back the Layers panel and Alt-click or
Option-click the Layer Mask icon to make an inverted Layer Mask of the selection next
to the active layer. Go to the Layer Mask and press and Hold Alt or Option as you drag a copy of it next to the “Glass Overlay”. Go to Filter, Blur and Gaussian Blur. Blur it 5 pixels and click OK or press Enter or Return. Make the Glass Overlay layer visible again and active. Reduce its opacity to 30%. Double-click the thumbnail of the glass overlay
to open its Layer Style window. Click Bevel & Emboss. The Style is “Inner Bevel”, the Technique
is “Chisel Hard” and the Depth is 200%. The Direction is Up and the Size is 4 pixels. Check “Global Light”. The Angle and Altitude are both 45 degrees. The Highlight Mode is Screen, the color is
white and its opacity is 100%. The Shadow Mode is Multiply, the color is
black and the opacity is 70%. Click “Drop Shadow”. The Blend Mode is “Linear Burn”, the color
is black and the opacity is 30%. Uncheck Global Light. The Angle is 135 degrees, the Distance is
45 pixels, the Spread is 16% and the Size is 27 pixels. To get rid of the thin bevel around the inside
edge of our image, click off the chain-link icon between the glass overlay layer and its layer mask. Doing this allows us to resize and/or reposition
either of them independently of the other. Click the layer to make it active and open
your Transform Tool. Drag it out until you don’t see the bevel anymore. Make the top layer active and click the Adjustment
Layer icon. Click “Color Lookup” and click “Load 3D LUT”. Click “Fuji F125 Kodak 2393”. Next, we’ll add a soft dark vignette around
the outer edges. Click the New Layer icon to make a new layer. Open the “Elliptical Marquee Tool” and go
to the center of the face. Press and hold Alt or Option + Shift as you
drag out a circle approximately this size. Go the Select, Modify and Feather. Feather it 200 pixels. Invert the selection by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + Shift + I. We’ll fill the selection with black, but first,
if your foreground and background colors aren’t black and white, respectively, press “D” on
your keyboard. Since black is your foreground color, press
Alt or Option + Delete. To deselect it, press Ctrl or Cmd + D. Change the Blend Mode to “Overlay” and reduce its opacity to 50%. Next, we’ll give the glass a slight green tint. Make the Glass Overlay layer active and click
the Adjustment Layer icon. Click “Solid Color”. In the hexadecimal field, type in 7F917A. The Color Fill adjustment layer is affecting all the layers beneath it in the Layers panel. To restrict it to just the glass overlay layer
directly under it, press Ctrl + Alt + G in Windows or Cmd + Option + G on a Mac. Change its Blend Mode to “Color”. If you want to adjust your subject’s size
or position behind the glass, scroll to the bottom and click off the chain-link icon to
unlink the subject copy’s layer and its layer mask. Make the layer active and Shift-click the
bottom subject to make it active, as well. Open your Transform Tool and if you see this
message, just click OK. Reposition your subject and if you see that
your Transform’s bounding box moved inside your canvas, adjust its size so the bounding
box remains outside. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV. Thanks for watching!

33 Replies to “Photoshop: How to Create a Portrait behind Shattered Glass.”

  1. Great video, wanted to give this a try but I do not see the 3 files or anything thats say PSD or project file. The portrait file only has 1 image

  2. What app is he using specifically for download?? I wanna download it onto my laptop… my guess is Adobe Photoshop?

  3. Also… can this photoshop thing be done on mobile phone? In case it doesnt work out with the laptop?

  4. And also… can the editing on this app be done without a WI-FI connection? (Since the app needed wi-fi)Or does it need WI-FI every single time??

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